Miners in the marble spoil heaps, Mogok, 2016
Bespoke, from mine to jewel

We go down the mine ourselves.

We choose the rough, we do everything else, and we deliver the certificate.

◆ Every gem we sell is sourced at the mine, cut, polished and certified by us.

Six steps

From the shaft to your hand

  1. Alluvial gem mine in Mogok, 2016
    Alluvial mine, Mogok, 2016

    We go to the mine and down the shaft with the miners

    Mogok’s gems come from alluvial pits, tunnels and the marble spoil that villagers sort by hand. We go there ourselves and work beside the miners: it is the only way to know where a gem really comes from.

  2. David Nataf at the Mogok gem market, 2016
    David Nataf at the Mogok gem market, 2016

    We choose the rough ourselves

    At the market or straight from the miners, we look at every rough gem with a loupe and a torch for colour, clarity and how it will cut. Nothing is bought through a middleman.

  3. Traditional horn faceting tool with a rough gem fixed in wax, Mogok
    Horn faceting tool, rough fixed in wax, Mogok, 2016

    Traditional cutting and polishing, including on the horn tool

    Mogok’s lapidaries still fix the rough with wax on a horn tool and place each facet by eye. We sit at the bench with them and follow the gem until it is finished.

  4. David Nataf cutting a sapphire with Ku Pion, Mogok, 2016
    David Nataf cutting a sapphire with Ku Pion, Mogok, 2016

    Gemmological examination by Hana Nataf and David Nataf (GIA GG)

    Each of us examines the finished gem independently: microscope, refractometer, polariscope, spectroscope. Inclusions are documented, never hidden.

  5. Green wax model of a ring in a black box
    Wax model, before casting

    We design the mount and make the jewel

    Sketch, wax model, fitting, then casting, setting and polishing in our Porto workshop, directed by Pedro Manuel Sousa e Silva. You approve each stage on a video call.

  6. Finished cushion sapphire cluster ring held in the hand
    Finished ring

    Delivered with an independent laboratory report

    Your gem comes with a report from an independent laboratory (GIA, SSEF, Gübelin, GRS…) stating species, treatment and, where the laboratory can determine it, origin. It is also recorded on carat.technology.

Video: Atelier de dorure, fine gold leaf gilding in our workshop

« Atelier de dorure », David Nataf, YouTube · youtu.be/kILrdkmQO2c

Savoir-faire

Fine gold leaf gilding

In our Porto workshop, gold leaf is laid by hand with a brush, on lava beads and jewellery components. A service in its own right, on quotation.

Your project

Request a bespoke project

Tell us about the gem and the piece you imagine. We reply personally and suggest a video call. We do not publish prices for bespoke work: every gem is different.

See gems we have sourced and sold

No prices online: we discuss your project on a video call. This form opens your email app, addressed to d@salamandre.co.uk.